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To
ascertain the value of a diamond, jewelers consider
the following qualities of the stone:
Cut
| Color
| Clarity | Carat
Weight | Certification
Each stone is a unique creation of nature that bears exclusive
combination of those 5 Cs. Most people consider carat weight
to be
the dominant factor in determining a diamond's value. In reality,
however, dimensions of a diamond should be considered along
with
clarity, color and cut. Identity of a stone cannot be duplicated,
unless a diamond was created artificially. Understanding the
5 Cs will not only make you an expert, but will also reassure
the
value of your investment.
CUT
Cut
is the most important and least understood quality of a
diamond. So,what is cut? Cut is a combination of proportion
and shape. Just like other transparent medium such as
water or glass the density of diamond will "bend" light at
a specific angle as it passes through.
A
diamond that is cut proportionatly reflects
maximum amount of light from one
mirrow-like face to another and disperces it
throught the crown. When diamonds are cut
to shallow or too deap they loose spilling it
through the side or bottom. Consequently, a
poorly proportioned stone is less brilliant and
spectacular and accordingly posses less value.
During every stage of the fashioning process a craftsman will
aim to create a proportionate diamond that reflects the maximum
amount of light back to the eye. Most round, brilliant-cut
or fancy-shaped diamonds possess 58 carefully angled flat
surfaces, called facets. It is the precision of each facet's
placement that will affect the amount of fire, brilliance
and ultimate beauty of your diamond.
Ideal proportions for a round diamond, for instance, are 57%
Depth (the proportion of the total height of the diamond compared
to the girdle diameter) and 59% Table (the proportion of the
table size compared to the girdle diameter). By definition,
this is called the "ideal cut" and round diamonds showing
these proportions are very expensive and highly sought after.
This does not mean, however, that only ideal cut diamonds
will show brilliance and fire! There are many other factors
to be considered (such as color, clarity and carat size) and
any diamond close enough to this measurements will bring the
scintillating effect generally sought in a diamond. A properly
cut diamond will virtually explode with dazzling brilliance
and color. An improper cut, often for the sole purpose of
leaving added carat weight, will leave dark, glassy or watery
looking areas in the diamond. Less than 10% of all Round Brilliants
qualify for true Ideal Cut, and only about 20% of all diamonds
qualify as Preferred Cut. That leaves 70% of the market cut
with carat weight as the priority as opposed to brilliance.
Shape refers to the inherent shape of the diamond. Among the
most common shapes available on the market are the round cut,the
princess cut, the pear shape,the oval,the emerald cut, the
marquise, the heart shape, the emerald, and the radient shape
cut.
The shape you select is matter of individual taste, and today
your choice is only limited by the skill of a craftsman.
COLOR
Diamonds
vary in color from colorless to slight tones of yellow or
brown. Colorless diamonds are most brilliant, most radiand
most valuable. The D-J ratings are most desirable. The most
prized diamonds are colorless, their beauty depends entirely
upon their remarkable optical properties.
In
these types of diamonds, all the colors of the rainbow are
reflected back to your eye.The color grading scale varies
from totally colorless to light color or tinted. The differences
between one grade and its neighbor is very subtle.
The
closer a diamond is to colorless the more valuable it becomes.
Diamonds with no hint of color are very rare. Diamond color
grades start at D (colorless) and continue through Z (light
yellow/brown). The price of the diamond increases as you move
along the scale from Z to D, with D stones being the most
expensive.
The
differences between grades are extremely subtle.
Sometimes, diamonds are naturally saturated with a lot of
color such as pink, bright blue or yellow. These highly prized
diamonds called fancies, are very rare and usually demand
premium prices. Fancy colored diamonds are not graded on the
above scale.
CLARITY
Because
of their unique optical properties, diamonds, more than any
other gemstones, are capable of producing the maximum amount
of brilliance. While minute crystals of diamond or other minerals
are contained in almost all diamonds, a diamond that is virtually
free of inclusions and surface markings will be judged as
flawless.
In
these diamonds, nothing interferes with the passage of light
nor spoils the beauty. But these diamonds are extremely rare
and will command a high price. Most diamonds contain very
tiny flaws known as inclusions. The clarity of a diamond is
determined by the amount and location of these flaws when
viewed under 10 power magnification. Mapping the inclusions
within the stone is also used as a method of fingerprinting
to help identify one particular stone from another. For fine
jewelry, you will want to avoid inclusions that are visible
to the naked eye.
Under
the scrutiny of a jeweler's 10X magnifying loupe the appearance
of tiny crystals, feathers or clouds can be identified. These
natural phenomena are called inclusions. Large inclusions
may interfere with the path of light cascading through a diamond,
thus effecting its vibrancy. The fewer the natural inclusions,
the higher the grade and the greater the value of the stone.
The number, size, position, nature and color of the inclusions
determine the clarity of the diamond. Clarity Grading Scale
FL-IF No inclusions visible (by an expert) under 10x magnification.
FL=Flawless, IF=Internally Flawless VVS1-VVS2 Minute - extremely
difficult to find under 10x. VVS=Very, Very Slightly Included
VS1-VS2 Minor - difficult to find under 10x. VS=Very Slightly
Included SI1-SI2 Noticeable - relatively easy to find under
10x. SI=Slightly Included I1-I2-I3 Obvious under 10x - just
visible to the naked eye. I=Imperfect What minute inclusions
there may be make every diamond unique. These are, in fact,
nature's fingerprints and do not mar the diamond's beauty
nor endanger its durability. However, the fewer there are,
the rarer your diamond will be.
CARAT
WEIGHT
As
with all precious stones, the weight-and therefore the size-of
a diamond is expressed in carats. One carat is divided into
100 "points" so that a diamond of 25 points is described
as a quarter of a carat or 0.25 carats.
Size
is the most obvious factor in determining the value of a diamond,
but now you know that two diamonds of equal size can have
very unequal prices depending on their quality. However, remember
that diamonds of high quality can be found in all size ranges.
Here are some other examples that show the approximate size
of diamonds of varying carat weights. For example, a 0.75
carat diamond is the same as a 75-point diamond or a 3/4 carat
stone. The larger the diamond, the more rare it is, therefore,
the more valuable.
U.S.
law allows a half-point tolerance measured to a carat (0.001)
and rounded to the nearest hundredth (0.01). Example: 0.995
carat can legally be described and sold as a one-carat diamond
in the United States. International trade and G.I.A.'s GemTrade
round up to the next higher hundredth only from nine thousandths
of a carat. Example: 0.999 carat = 1.00 carat, 0.998 carat
= 0.99 carat Though larger diamonds are highly sought, a diamond
of lesser size may have higher clarity and color or a more
precise cut and be of equal value. It is important, also,
not to confuse weight with size. Two diamonds with exactly
the same size might weight differently.
CERTIFICATION
The
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is one of the most
trusted names in the industry. The GIA is an unbiased, non-profit
organization which established the world's most recognized
and accurate system for grading diamonds.
While
GIA is the most widely known laboratory, there are numerous
other laboratories which are both reputable and accurate,
including the American Gem Society (AGS), the European Gemological
Laboratory (EGL), the Diamond High Council (HRD) and the International
Gemological Institute (IGI). These certifications are quality
reports and do not establish values.
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